Sitting off the southeastern coast of Taiwan, Lanyu is home to the Tao people who strive to retain their unique culture and customs, as well as the unspoiled natural beauty of this charming little island. Each spring, flying fish come with the current take a flight to the air around the island. Their soaring figures with black wings are just like the canoes full of harvest, making the islanders sing merrily to celebrate. Countless travellers are attracted to the breathtaking scenery and the aboriginal tradition. They set foot on Lanyu to explore and learn the traditional belief of the Tao people, listen to the stories and ancient legends told by the Langtao villagers, and wander through the wild field of Yeyin Village. The six villages here each bears a distinctive character, enriching the cultural landscape of this tiny island. While the islanders live in this picturesque natural spectacle, there is one family is like walking out of a picture. Meni Place, located in Hungtou Village, is a firm house of a hardworking and good-hearted family. The host, Xiaoshi, is a Tao aboriginal. And his wife XiaoQ, a traveller who once stayed at Meni Place and fell for the island and its people, now takes root here and helps run the guesthouse. Along with their kids – Beibei, Yangyang, and Xiangxiang – the family of five lead a sweet and simple life on Lanyu while travellers come and go.
Enjoy life and build the relaxing Meni Place
Xiaoshi’s dark face has strongly defined features as the blood of Lanyu native runs through his veins, and he talks with a sense of humor of his originality. Upon finishing junior high school, he left Lanyu to Taiwan and stayed there for studying and working afterward. When he was 28, a phone call regarding a government-granted house rebuilding plan brought him home. Back to Lanyu, he first opened up a tribal cafe-bar and drove his mobile coffee truck to Green Green Grassland to serve the tourists. “My typical day would be like starting from greeting the sheep and ending by picking up stones all over the island.” Xiaoshi smiles and recalls the period of being a lone wolf. The wandering past still can be seen in his brown eyes, but now, thinking of his responsibility for his family, a gentle look takes over his face.
Xiaoshi started running Meni Place in 2007 and continued to build more rooms for the guesthouse. His previous experience as a travel photographer in Bali had a major influence on his design aesthetics. “I hope that the local environment, music, and people all are able to interact naturally.” Xiaoshi planned and built the space in the belief that people should slow their pace and return to a laid-back status. “You have to learn how to live before you can enjoy it. The scenery is always there, it won’t escape,” says Xiaoshi. Because he loves to savor life, he also loves to share this attitude toward the wonder of life with travellers. Meni Place is one of the first B&Bs on Lanyu that introduced the work exchange program as well. Visitors can not only have a taste of local life as travellers, but they can gain deeper experience by being butlers or helpers at the lodging and stay for a longer period of time.
The wonderful encounter on the island
As the night grew late, three kids and the stars above Lanyu all fell asleep, Xiaoshi and XiaoQ finally had some time for themselves. After a few beers and snacks, they told us how they met each other and more stories about Lanyu.
Back in 2010, the lost passion for work and a relationship setback making XiaoQ quit her job as an insurance agent and leave Taipei, the city she had lived for more than a decade. She travelled around Taiwan, and when she came to Lanyu, she stayed at Meni Place for a week. Xiaoshi was the only host of the guesthouse then, and perhaps XiaoQ was attracted to his unique and subtle temperament at first, they gradually developed feelings for each other. The island romance just blossomed under the pink sky brushed by the rays of sunset. Xiaoshi jokes that, when XiaoQ was leaving and he went seeing her off at the airport, he really wished that there had been a storm to keep her staying. “Before we met, I was like a kite drifting in the sky for a very long time.” In the past, this prodigal son spent his day either listening to the radio under the shade of a pavilion or going fishing with his speargun. Eventually, he met with XiaoQ, the girl gave him a sense of security and not just a holiday fling. The addition of XiaoQ completes the longing of Meni Place to be as a home and a family.
The pulse of the ocean in the Tao blood
Inheriting the pulse of the ocean in the blood of the Tao people, Xiaoshi’s mind and soul are still engraved with ancient myths and wisdom. “Our own culture is our belief.” Abiding by their unique calendar, the Tao people live and practice religious rituals in accordance with nature’s rhythm. They obey the taboo against going out when night falls, talk to the mountains and forests in all sincerity, and be grateful to the ocean who bestows upon them so many gifts. When we talked in high spirits, Xiaoshi also vividly imitated the different accents of the six villages on Lanyu. “The tone of Hungtou Village is agreeable, the Langtao’s is like singing, and the Yeyin’s is forthright.” Xiaoshi felt very lucky to be born on this beautiful island with such a diverse culture.
Different from the older generation with conservative thinking, Xiaoshi has an open mind for everything new. In the hope of enriching not only his own life but also the life of the island, Xiaoshi appreciated that their ancestors didn’t compromise the environment protection for money and that those who work in the field of culture and history have recorded their culture objectively. “Now in the morning, in front of the farmer’s association building, the markets selling fresh vegetables and seafood are held regularly, while the elderly happily gather in front of the post office.” Seeing that some changes are made on the island, Xiaoshi smiled with a feeling of content.
On the otherworldly Lanyu, people not only strive to preserve their environment and culture but also welcome more new things. More intercultural loves are blessed, while more new ideas are sparked off. Some Lanyu natives far away from home keep the island in their minds, while drawn to the beauty of the island, more and more travellers stay for the vitality of the blue ocean and simplicity of strolling in the idyllic scene. Meni Place stands here with its root growing deeper into the soil of Lanyu. The eyes of the host family are full of hopes for the better future, just like flying fish soaring in the wind.